Above: Gastown’s iconic Steam Clock (Noah Schmidt/Flickr)
Gastown is probably the most unique piece of Downtown Vancouver. The cobblestone streets, the vintage Steam Clock, and the authentic 19th century architecture provide distinct atmosphere to a neighborhood out of step with time. But perhaps the most notable thing about Gastown is it’s troubled history. What history you ask? Well for starters, none of what I just said is true.
There’s no cobblestone streets In Gastown, it’s simple masonry brick. The iconic Steam Clock? Installed in 1977. The architecture? Mostly modern re-interpretation. Gastown as we know it today was a creation born of the Vietnam-era, as locals wished to preserve what was left of the old days from being demolished in favor of a new freeway. But despite most of its landmarks and structures being modern creations, Gastown is still the historic origin of Vancouver as a city, which means there’s an entire other era of history hidden behind layers of modern revitalization.
“Gassy Jack” and the Globe Saloon
First things first, what’s with that name. “Gastown” is derived from the nickname of its unofficial founder, John Deighton, known to most as “Gassy Jack”. Gassy was an English Bar owner, operating the Globe Saloon in New Westminster. He was a boisterous fellow, with a tendency to talk, or “gas” for an abnormally long time. Many of Jack’s patrons would trudge 5 hours to the pub from the sawmills on the Burrard inlet daily, but since the area remained largely undeveloped, Jack made the decision to stay in New West. Well, that was until his buddy accidentally let a group of patriotic Americans destroy the saloon one faithful Independence day, causing Jack to make the trip north.
Gastown’s Early Years
The new Globe Saloon on the banks of the Burrard spiked interest in developing the area, and within a few years, a new city was on the rise. But all would not be well in the recently designated Granville Townsite, as the Great Vancouver Fire of 1886 would ravage the community, destroying much of its wooden infrastructure. Just over 10 years after the fire, the town’s unofficial mascot, John Deighton, would pass away, taking the Gastown name to his grave for a time.
For some cities, this would mark the end. But in Gastown’s case, this was a fresh start. The area was redeveloped, with the wooden buildings of old replaced by modern brick & mortar. It became the newly incorporated City of Vancouver’s primary wholesale district, with business owners from all walks of life setting up shop on Cordova street. But the good times wouldn’t last for long, as the arrival of the Great Depression changed Gastown once again, this time, into a slum.
The Great Depression and Revitalization
The Gastown name fell further into obscurity, as a new name was given to the area: Skid Row. Even after the massive effort to revitalize Gastown after the fire, it once again fell into ruin, with high vacancies and an unprofitable business scene. Was this the final nail in the coffin for Vancouver’s original neighborhood? I think we all know the answer to that question.
When the Vancouver Highway project was announced, local business owners jumped on the opportunity to invest in new properties around the future site. Office towers were planned, blueprints were drawn, and money was spent. But eventually, the people of Vancouver pushed the city to reconsider, and thus the lucrative prospects of Project 200 died. So what now? Well, maybe the areas that were meant to be demolished could be used in a different way. Gastown was noticed for its unique heritage value, so business owners pivoted focus to revitalizing the area instead. The streets were covered with brick, facades renovated, and Steam Clock installed, all to give Gastown a unique vintage flair. For the cherry on top, a statue of Gassy jack himself was erected near the location of the second Globe Saloon, the very place Vancouver was born.
Gastown Today
Gastown’s history is the dictionary definition of being full of ups and downs. From a ten-building village in the middle of nowhere, to thriving suburb, to burnt ruins, back to thriving suburb, to slum, to historic tribute, the neighborhood’s resilience is inspiring to say the least. Despite this, the history of Gastown has been reevaluated in recent years, as it’s story of misfortune may not be over. In 2022, Gassy Jack’s statue was toppled by protesters for missing and murdered indigenous women. Although many regard Deighton as the father of modern Vancouver, the reality of the man was far grimmer than his mythic status would lead one to believe. John had married a Squamish woman during the 1860’s, and after her death in 1870, married her niece. Kwa7xiliya was only 12 when she became John Deighton’s second wife, leaving a dark stain on the legacy of a rehabilitated Gastown.
Perhaps the name “Gastown” will fade away once again, justifiably so, but the town itself is here to stay, standing as an enduring symbol of resilience, history, and Vancouver itself.
Written by Noah Schmidt
Contact: nschmidt20@my.bcit.ca